Catch It, North Shore, Oahu, Hawaii, March 2011, Nikon D5000 with DX 18-200mm VR lens,
300mm, 1/1600 sec @ f5.6, ISO 200, 0 EV, no flash © Steven Crisp [Click on the photo to enlarge]
Catch it ... and then let it go. You must if you wish to ride it.
I love this shot, with the wind so clearly whipping the waves in the back of the frame.
This was a red-flag day, and you had better know what you were doing to be out in the water.
But if you have the skill, and the guts, you might just have some fun.
Don't cling. Roll with it. Go with the flow. You know what works. And what doesn't.